A Nigerian conceptual non-binary design label has been announced has the winner for the 2023 International Woolmark Prize, while a Danish conceptual knitwear brand has won the Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation.
Lagos Space Programme, designed by Adeju Thompson took out the International Woolmark Prize while A. ROEGE HOVE received the Karl Lagerfeld Award, each claiming $200,000.
The awards were announced in Paris, with Amsterdam-based textile innovation studio BYBORRE also celebrating after being recognised as the Supply Chain Award recipient.
An expert panel of judges including Alessandro Sartori, Carine Roitfeld, Caroline de Maigret, Elizabeth von der Goltz, Francesco Risso, John Roberts, Pieter Mulier, Salehe Bembury, Shaway Yeh, Sinéad Burke, Tim Blanks, and Tyler Mitchell selected the winners.
"The speciality of the Woolmark Prize is it's the only fashion award celebrating the fibre and materials and nature - the animals, the soil, all the farmers in the supply chain," Chinese fashion media leader Shaway Yeh said.
"It's not only celebrating human creativity but also nature's creativity."
The return to Paris pays tribute to the award's humble beginnings, where more than 70 years ago they catapulted the careers of Valentino Garavani, Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent, with a judging panel comprising Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy.
The 2023 International Woolmark Prize was centred around the theme of Dialogue, reflecting The Woolmark Company's mission to establish dialogue and connect leading design talent with industry players to collectively envision a more sustainable future, also referencing a dialogue between Australian woolgrowers and the entire supply chain.
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The Woolmark Company managing director John Roberts said the International Woolmark Prize celebrates Australian Merino wool, with winners and finalists imbued with a life-long love for the fibre.
"Karl Lagerfeld is a prime example, and more recently Gabriela Hearst - who won the Woolmark Prize here in Paris in 2017 - continues to be a wonderful champion of the fibre," he said.
"We're proud of the nurturing relationships developed as part of the program, connecting designer with the supply chain and breaking down barriers.
"This year's finalists will now continue their IWP journey, joining a prestigious alumni of more than 400 and will be presented with commercial opportunities via our retail partner network."
Thompson said winning the International Woolmark Prize was a life-changing opportunity.
"It means that things will be easier for me; coming from Nigeria there's no support," they said.
"To have recognition from The Woolmark Company - wow, I'm so speechless and I'm looking forward to the future."